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Posted: Wed Aug 03, 2011 8:41pm

Post Subject: Hull Blacking

Our broadbeam is due to be blacked again, I am after a bit of advice on previous pits i noticed last time .Should i fill the pits or should i just clean them and black.The pits are silver so i presume the anodes are working,cheers


Posted: Thu Aug 04, 2011 8:36am

Post Subject: Hull Blacking

Once again we have a question where the lack of detail makes impossible to give a proper answer. First of all I would NOT simply fill any pits using something like a car body filler. Many fillers are porous so may make matters worse. There may be some industrial fillers that are waterproof (Check Belzona)but I would still not do it - it's bets pits are there for all to see so their extent can be assessed. If the pits are 1mm deep in a 10mm baseplate they are of no real consequence. If they are 3mm in a 4mm hull side they need attention and I would suggest welding or over-plating. Just work out how much metal there is left and remember many Springers built with 4mm hulls are now well over 40 years old. I am not going to comment on the anodes working (or not) but if you use a shoreline please make sure you also use an isolation transformer or a WORKING galvanic isolator installed. The advice I got from Blakes (now Hemple) was to wire brush the rusty areas after industrial pressure washing and then rough the surface with an angle grinder because a wire brush can polish the steel reduce the adhesion of the blacking. I would use a vicious type of wire brush on an angle grinder called a knot brush. You can obtain primers designed for blacking (look up Primocon) and do not use oxide or red lead primers. A primer is not absolutely necessary as long as you take steps to really work the blacking into the pits. Some people use two different blackings, both of the same base material, one thin then a fuller bodied one whilst others thin the first coat. Really scrub it into the pits. Finally take care you do not put a tar based blacking onto one based on bitumen. Tony Brooks

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