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djgobey
djgobey

Posted: Sun Sep 02, 2012 7:53pm

Post Subject: fuel filters

I have a 45hp barrus shire engine and i would like to fit a fuel filter as suggested by Mr John Gilks in his E mail in the September issue. Will you please advise me on the best method of fitting and bleeding air from the fuel line. Do you suggest removing the existing water separator. Billyboy Regards D Gobey.

Tony-B
Tony-B

Posted: Mon Sep 03, 2012 8:19am

Post Subject: fuel filters

First of all we need to clarify things. Mr Gilks does not make what he fitted completely clear and you only refer to a "water separator" which could describe at least three things form a variety of manufacturers. I think Mr Gilkes probably fitted a combined unit into the fuel supply line between tank and engine. Incidental if he fails to maintain his fuel, tank and system his thing will block as fast as the filter on the engine. Now to your system. What most people call water separators fall into three categories. Sedimetors, agglomerators and combined units. If your "water separator" has a filter in its design it is an agglomerator and in an ideal world would have a sedimentor fitted before it. If your "water separator" has no signs of a filter and possibly has an inverted cone inside it then it is a sedimentor. In this case it should have an agglomerator after it in the fuel flow. If you want to spend best part of £300 then you can buy a combined unit and fit it in place of your existing "water separator". Then you need to ensure a ready supply of spare elements. If you want a cost effective job then identify if you have a sedimentor or agglometator and buy the other one as made by Delph/Lucas/CAV (same company) and fit that in the appropriate place in your system. This is likley to cost around £50. Just remember it will all be useless unless you maintain things. They are not a magic bullet. How you bleed the air from the "line" pre-engine bleeding depends upon the units level compared with the fuel level in the tank. If it is below the fuel level then loosening a union or bleed screw on the unit and perhaps blowing down the tank breather may be enough to get the fuel flowing so it largely bleeds by gravity. If this is not possible then bleed as per your engine instructions but if your engine is self bleeding and does not use an electric lift pump you may have to spin the engine on the starter in 30 second bursts with 30 seconds rest between bursts to get all the air from the system. Tony Brooks

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