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Posted: Mon Jul 07, 2008 3:05pm

Post Subject: polishing type

I have just finished painting my boat with rylands paint and would like some advice on the best sort of polish / surface protector to use to help protect the paint finish and colour, which is dark blue. many thanks


Posted: Tue Jul 08, 2008 8:36pm

Post Subject: polishing type

I waited a day to reply in case Phil or anyone else better qualified turned up. If Phil posts ignore me. As I understand it Rylards is straight forward air drying coach paint so will remain relatively soft for some time. Personally I would avoid polishing it for two or three months, but do wash it frequently to remove atmospheric pollution which may be corrosive or contain hydrocarbons. For day to day washing most canal water will do before too many boats have got moving UNLESS you can see it is polluted. Every three or four weeks wash with a shampoo for cars (or boats if you want to pay the marine mark up). Do not use washing up liquid because it may contain salt and all sorts of other things that may be bad for the paint. Once the paint has hardened it will be OK to use a polish however the big danger is getting involved with polishes that contain silicons because they leave very hard to remove residue that prevents touch up paint and the like adhering to the surface. In bad cases of silicon contamination the paint tends to pool in "fish eyes". Polish sold specifically for marine use is unlikely to contain silicons but many auto-polishes do, so read the labels with great care. If you do find you have inadvertently applied a silicon polish a good wash off with something known as spirit wipe (from auto-paint suppliers) will go a long way to removing it but may dull the paint. Use the spirit wipe before and after the initial rubbing down. Perhaps the most important attribute of the polish is its ability to protect the paint from attach by ultraviolet light but any good quality polish should do that to a degree. Perhaps of even more importance is to keep up a regular washing regime and turning the boat on its moorings so both sides get equal exposure to the sun (this is Phil's advice). Having discussed this at length with my body shop colleagues I tend to use Autogleam. I am assured spirit wipe will remove its residue but I have also used a couple of marine polishes from a chandlers.I know several boaters who swear by Mer. All you can do with polish is to delay the inevitable degradation of the binder so the paint goes dull and sheds pigment. At that stage you have two choices. I use T-Cut once a year followed by a couple of good polishing sessions or you can clean it, rub down with very fine wet and dry and apply a few coats of varnish. However seeing the state of much of the older scumble work on boats I would tend to shy away from varnish. Tony Brooks

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