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Posted: Sun Jan 18, 2015 5:00pm

Post Subject: LED's

Can I simply replace halogen bulbs with LED's, (G54 horizontal fit in both cases).

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Posted: Sun Jan 18, 2015 5:01pm

Post Subject: LED's

Should have read G4.

Tony-B
Tony-B

Posted: Mon Jan 19, 2015 7:28am

Post Subject: LED's

If both bulbs are 12V DC (and I think G5s usually are) then yes with one rather important caveat. IF the bulb was designed for use in the home it would probably be supplied via a stabilised and voltage and current limited supply. Boats, however tend to have a very spiky 12V DC supply that an run at 15+ volts when using certain chargers/alternator controllers while even with a 14.4 V alternator can still produce extremely high surges. This means that "bulbs" designed for use on boats and motor homes should have extra components in them so they are not damaged by those spikes. However many people seem to getaway with using non-boat type LED bulbs while others have had "boat type" bulbs catch fire or fail. Personally I would pay a premium for 12V bulbs sold as suitable for boat use but it is up to you. Other people have built their own stabilised 12V supply for the lighting circuits and presumably installed these at the fuse box end. Sorry not to give a straight answer. Tony Brooks

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Posted: Mon Jan 19, 2015 5:37pm

Post Subject: LED's

I was considering the "Bedazzled" range as advertised in Canalboat and Tillergraph.

Tony-B
Tony-B

Posted: Mon Jan 19, 2015 10:17pm

Post Subject: LED's

They seem to be well regarded in inland boating. Also look a Baddy the Pirate. She is a boater supplying boaters. Either should supply suitably protected units.

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Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2015 12:26pm

Post Subject: LED's

Tony, many thanks for the advice.

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Posted: Sun Jan 25, 2015 3:55pm

Post Subject: LED's

Tony, Am I correct in assuming I will need to reduce the value of circuit fuses in the light circuits where LED replace halogen bulbs?

Tony-B
Tony-B

Posted: Mon Jan 26, 2015 7:29am

Post Subject: LED's

You can if you want to but fuse type protection for the bulb should be one of those extra components I was on about. The trouble is if you fuse to protect one bulb that fuse is likely to blow as soon as you turn other bulbs on that circuit on. This means you need to fuse for the current flow when all the bulbs on that circuit are on but that means the fuse may not blow if a single bulb develops a fault. The basic rule is fuse to protect the cable and leave appliance protection to the manufacturers. However if a manufacturer specifies a fuse size AND it is a single appliance on the circuit you should fuse as specified but ALSO ensure the cable is rated for that current or higher.

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Posted: Fri Feb 06, 2015 4:34pm

Post Subject: LED's

Out of interest, the Baddy the Pirate website technical advice suggests you need to fuse for the current flow when all the bulbs on that circuit are.

Tony-B
Tony-B

Posted: Fri Feb 06, 2015 6:07pm

Post Subject: LED's

Of course it does. That is what I said. However that fuse will not protect a single bulb when the electronics in it goes faulty. The cable has to be specified to carry the full current when all the bulbs are working and the fuse is specified to protect the cable. If more protection for a single bulb is required the that would have to be by the bulb for a multi-bulb circuit. A good rule of thumb is that fuse protect the cable if an appliance needs protection then that is extra but on single appliance circuits a fuse and cable can be specified so one fuse protects both the appliance and cable. TB

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