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cwoodward...
cwoodward...

Posted: Tue Jan 07, 2020 3:44pm

Post Subject: replacing radiator valve

I have an Eberspacher DW5 with 3 radiators and an open header tank. The valve on the final radiator in the system is leaking and needs replacing.(photo attached) What do I have to do to replace it, do I have to drain the system and if so how? I am confused because as well as the obvious drain on the radiator valve, immediately below are pipes connecting to the rest of the system which also seem to have a drainage valve. I would welcome any advice on draining and refilling.

replacing radiator valve
Tony-B...
Tony-B...

Posted: Tue Jan 07, 2020 7:30pm

Post Subject: replacing radiator valve

I am afraid that the way the forum deals with photos makes them impossible to use. Also boats are really one-offs so descriptions don't help much either. I suggest that you emails this photo plus one of the drainage valve you mention to Tony@tb-training.co.uk. It may help with refilling if you can tell me if your system has a header tank or is sealed and a photo of the pipework around the Eber.

Tony-B...
Tony-B...

Posted: Wed Jan 08, 2020 10:27am

Post Subject: replacing radiator valve

The reason I want photos of the valve is because I need to identify where the leak is. If it is from under the cap/knob there is very often a gland nut that simply needs tightening. Its a bit like a stern gland.You will need to take the plastic cap/knob off to see it.

Tony-B...
Tony-B...

Posted: Thu Jan 09, 2020 10:40am

Post Subject: replacing radiator valve

I had hoped to avoid a long detailed answer but ----. There are four potential leakage points associated with a radiator valve. The gland if one is used as described above, the compression fitting at the base of the valve, the fitting where the valve is attached to the stub coming form the radiator and a leak where the stub screws into the radiator. I have covered the gland as above but if the valve uses O rings then a new valve may be needed. The compression fitting might just need slightly tightening, especially if its on plastic piping and either no pipe insert has been used or a plastic instead of metal one is is the end of the pipe. I think this woudl need the system draining unless the lockshield valve on the other end of the radiator was turned off (noting how many turns so it can be easily reset when done) and the pipe is frozen but as the system should contain antifreeze freezing is probably not a reliable option. The two faults involving the stub from the radiator can probably be done with just draining the radiator. Turn the lockshield valve off, the radiator valve off and then use containers to catch any liquid that leaks from the radiator when you free the valve from the stub. The stub into the radiator connection can probably be resealed with PTFE tape. The stub to valve flange will probably need a new fibre washer. Changing the valve itself might be doable without draining down if the header tank was sealed or if a sealed system the pressure vessel was depressurised and the lockshield valve turned off. The with old towels and containers under the joints close the leaking valve, unscrew it from the radiator stub and immediately fit the new valve that is also closed. Then quickly undo the compression fitting and push it hard into the new valve and tighten. I suspect most people would drain the system down. A problem mat come when refilling with a 30% antifreeze mixture with getting air trapped in the Eberspacher unless a bleed point has been fitted close to it. This is why I asked for a photo of the pipes around the Ebber. I can't be any more specific about the draining down unless I can see exactly what the reader is talking about so the request for photos.

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