Posted: Fri Jul 17, 2009 6:57pm

Hi Tony Many thanks for the quick response. With regards to your queries, please let me try to explain this more clearer. I was meaning the Injection Pump seems to have oil mixed in with the diesel inside it. The reason I found this out was due to it being recommended by Gee Diesel (The people who reconditioned the Injection Pump) it was recommended I take the Inspection Plate off to find the letter 'A' on the driveshaft inside to tell me which port on the pump was No. 1. Whilst doing this, I found what seems to be oil mixed with the diesel. After the Pump was fully reconditioned, a friend of a friend tried to fit this pump onto the engine. Whilst doing so, he didnt mesh the gears properly, proceeded to tighten the three nuts and snapped off the lug on the pump with the timing mark on it. I am wondering if he had pressed the shaft into the pump would he damage anything? i.e a seal behind the shaft that could let oil into the pump. To let you understand, diesels are not my forte but I have worked on motorcycles and cars for many years. You asked how I set the timing. By removing the timing case cover, cranking the engine until the valve timing marks line up with each other then fitting the Injection Pump Driving Spindle, locating it at 7 o'clock position, it then turns and ends up at 5 o' clock position. As I say it just so happens, the lug that is broken off the diesel pump, is the on with the timing mark on it so to remedy this, I have measured the slot on the opposite lug, scribed a centre line and also done the same on the flange. I have heard that you should do this procedure with a timing tool -18G629. I belive this is to take the slack up on the timing chain whilst refitting the drive spindle. You mentioned the small 8mm screw on the side of the top of the diesel pump - Yes I did think that was a bleed screw and I have been screwing the 8mm headed bolt in and out and I have maybe also turned the nut that this bolt this secures into. There is also two hexagon nuts on the top of the throttle body 3/8 in size with little head on top. These may also have been turned slightly. You mentioned a broken spring in the filter head - Is this on the retunr side of the head or is this on the opposite side where there is a banjo bolt? I hope I have explained as much as I can and your help and time is much appreciated on this Tony. Many thanks Rab

Posted: Fri Jul 17, 2009 9:42pm

The only banjo normally found on a BMC 1.5 is on top of the filter head for the leak off pipe and return to tank. The valve is in a hexagon housing that the return from the injector pump pipe screws into. The Gee Diesel should have re-scribed the timing mark on the flange whilst the pump was on their test rig. There is no guarantee it will be in the centre of the lug. There is no need to go messing with covers, A or E marks and circlip ends on the 1.5, you just line the line up with the pointer. Now the pointer is set by 18G269 which is used to take up ALL the backlash in the drive, including the timing chain and skew gears. Again the pointer may well end up off centre depending upon the degree of backlash. The drive has a master spline as does the pump so as long as you fitted the drive correctly (assuming you took it out) and from memory it sounds about right then you have no need to worry about what cylinder is being injected the pipes can only go on one way unless they get badly bent. From what you say you could try starting the engine and twisting the pump to find the optimum position - I bet you have done it many times on distributors and magnetos! The way you describe the bleed screw as bing on the side of the top of the pump concerns me. The 1.5 pump is fitted straight into the BMC B series petrol engine distributor mounting so the turret with the stop and throttle lever is vertical and right on top of the pump. The BMC 1.8 is mounted into the back of the timing cover and parallel to the engine block and that one might have the turret inclined. The bleed screw that is best to use is on the side of the cylindrical body of the pump. If you have tried the one on the turret and altered the idle damper into which that bleed screw is fitted then that could be the cause of your lack of speed. Occasionally I have had pumps back with incorrectly set dampers and you give me the impression Gee are not familiar with 1.5s. I am on my boat at present so have no drawings for that pump but it the lug was broken I fear the distributor shaft may have damaged the transfer pump. It may be best to get the pump checked over and another body fitted if possible. Was the "engine oil" you found black or just oil coloured? If it was clean it could have been calibration fluid or preservation oil from the overhaul. If you have not already done so it might be best to have a look at the skew gears in case they are badly worn. BMCs are known for being difficult to bleed and even some engineers dread having to do it. The secret is to bleed each point for at least as long again after air bubbles top flowing from the various points. Slacken the banjo bolt ON TOP of the filter head and use primer until no more air bubbles are in the fuel and the some more. Tighten the banjo and loosen the bleed screw on the injector pump body and repeat but this time for even longer after all the air has gone. Tighten and then loosen all the main injector pipe unions at the injector end by half to one turn. Spin engine on starter until fuel drips from each union. Tighten and then it should start. Tony Brooks