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Posted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 1:57pm

Post Subject: cooling tanks

Dear Tony,I am sure that I have seen an article in CanalBoat about fitting an extra skin tank for cooling engines when cruising rivers.Can you advise me?


Posted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 5:56pm

Post Subject: cooling tanks

Dear Victor, Well no, not really because I do not know what you want advice about. Is it about the article, is it about the general principles, is it about a problem that may or may not be tank related, or is it about recommendations? There was such an article three editors ago when the then editor had problems on a new boat but that must have been prior to November 2005 when I joined Canal Boat. If you have no overheating problems when running hard then your skin tank is probably OK so you can stop worrying. If the boat is overheating when running hard you first of all need to rule out things like a build up of blacking on the tank's outer skin, airlocks, overloading because of an over-sized prop or a faulty head gasket. Once you are sure that sort of thing is not causing a problem you can start investigating the skin tank size. Beta advise 4 engine hp per sq. ft of tank area and my calculations say just over 3 hp per sq. ft. If your tank is smaller than this or if it is very thick or horizontally mounted than you may need to add more cooling area. making the tank thicker will only tend to make things worse. My advice would be to do what that editor had done and have a new tank fitted to the outside of the swim with a bleed point fitted in the upper steel pipe that comes through the hull. Also ensure the tank is baffled to force the water to take a long path through the tank. The tank should not have more than about a 0.5" or so water cavity. Some yards like to fit a pipe bent in a series of horizontal Us on the outside of the swim but this would cause me concern over possible airlocks and damage. Tony Brooks

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