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paul barty
paul barty

Posted: Sun Nov 24, 2019 12:51am

Post Subject: Domestic hot water heating

Hi everyone, I am new to narrow boating, running my engine or my Alde heater wont give me hot water from my calorifier, I think i have a airlock in the pipework, just past the valve cock that opens to the calorifier the copper pipe is red hot but not where is goes in at the top of the calorifier to heat it, I do not have a bleed valve to let air out on my calorifier just a pressure relieve valve, can anyone tell me how i can bleed it some other way, also running my engine doesn't heat my radiators but my alde will, should i blead my water from the skin tank as i have a beta keel cool tank, will this also solve the problem with my calorifier

Tony-B
Tony-B

Posted: Sun Nov 24, 2019 8:25am

Post Subject: Domestic hot water heating

The Pressure Relief valve has nothing to do with the heating coils so there is no point in bleeding anything via the PRV. Likewise the skin tank has nothing to do with the coil circuit on the majority of boats. If you have the potential to heat water via the engine and Alde then for the vast majority of boats the calorifier will have two coils, one for each heat source, but you say coil singular. The next problem I have in trying to understand your system is you talk about "just past the valve cock that opens to the calorifier" but typically the only valve cock on a calorifier is on the domestic water in let, not the coils. If there were a valve on the coils I would expect two per coil. There is too much unknown here to be bale to offer much help. It is not normal for the engine to heat the radiators so that much seems typical. How long do you run the engine or Alde for before you start testing pipes for heat. A calorifier will need at least an hour to heat the water. At fist the inlet side of the relevant coil will be hot (once the engine has warmed up) but the outlet side will remain coll until the water in the calorifier has had a chance to heat up. The only answer I can give you at present is that you loosen a hose or pipe union to let air out but I fear you may be misunderstanding the system so it would be best if you start the diagnostic process by emailing a photo or photos of your calorifier that show all the pipe and/or hose connections to Tony@tb-training.co.uk so I can see exactly what you have. If you are unhappy with sending direct to me then send them to the editor with a covering note that they be forwarded to me but that will introduce a delay for my response. I will reply direct to you by email and when its sorted explain it here.

paul barty
paul barty

Posted: Sun Nov 24, 2019 1:08pm

Post Subject: Domestic hot water heating

Hi Tony, thanks for your reply in trying to help me, sorry for the confusion, my valve stop is not on the calorifier, i have 2 valve stops under my bathroom sink, one for the radiators and one to let water through to the calorifier, there about 2ft or so from the calorifier, my engine doesnt heat water even running it for over an hour, i thought the engine would heat water to the radiators as well, my mistake, my Alde heating wont heat the coils in the calorier either but the pipe work is hot running towards the calorifier past the stop valve so hot water is going past it, the Alde does give great heat to the radiators though, im going to the boat tomorrow and i will take some pics of everything and email you them, thanks again. paul

Tony-B
Tony-B

Posted: Sun Nov 24, 2019 5:09pm

Post Subject: Domestic hot water heating

Thank you, I await the photos but some things to be going on with. Unless your engine is air cooled it would be typical to use engine heat to heat the calorifier but boats are all one off, very often built or modified by people with a poor technical knowledge base so nothing an be guaranteed until its proven, hence my request for photos. The domestic water part of the calorifier will have two pipe connections. A hot domestic water outlet near the top that is typically associated with that PRV and a cold domestic water inlet close to the bottom that may or may not have a one way valve and/or a shut off valve. If its a single coil calorifier then it will have two more connections that would typically be fed from the engine cooling system but may just be fed from the Alde. If its a twin coil calorifier it will have a second coil for the other heat source. The engine one may be connected by hose rather than pipe. Now neither of these heating coils should be at the top of the cylinder, I suspect it may be wrongly connected so please try to trace the pipes and tell me where each of them goes to or comes from. Tomorrow get the Alde circuit hot and try fully closing the valve feeding the radiators, that may be enough to force any air out of the Alde coil. You may find that you have to run with either or both valves partially closed to balance the flow between radiators and calorifier. I will comment more when you get back in touch. Thanks.

Tony-B
Tony-B

Posted: Mon Nov 25, 2019 6:35pm

Post Subject: Domestic hot water heating

Photos received. PRV in a very off place abut now awaiting more information because I could not see any "side" connections on the vertical cylinder.

Tony-B
Tony-B

Posted: Thu Nov 28, 2019 10:15pm

Post Subject: Domestic hot water heating

The major problem has been solved after a lot of to and fro emails. There is a single coil calorifier with vertical pipes running up to the calorifier coil with no bleed point. This ensures air will be trapped in the vertical legs and the coil. Loosening the top coil connection allowed the air to escape because the Alde header tank is higher than the coil. There is still a question about how the engine heats the single coil calorifier because engine cooling systems are normally pressurised while the Alde system is not.

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